On day 2 of London Fashion Week Fyodor Golan was my first catwalk show for the day. It’s no surprise that the vibrant fashion label has reached its 5th Anniversary! As designers Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman approach their celebratory landmark they are soaring on their reputation of experimental design and dauntless colour, however this time around the show started off with an almost blank canvas.
Opening the show was a lightweight utility style overcoat featuring a wide and longline lapel (collar). Once you looked beyond the simple pebble grey layers that gently flowed into one another, you could see that there was more to it than just an invariable canvas. The coat was layered over a peak collared shirt dress with a square cut pocket detail that flowed in to a waterfall ruffle that cascaded down one side of the dress. Additional detail was reserved for the back of the over coat with two horizontally relaxed openings positioned across the upper and lower back. This monotone ensemble paved the way for the explosion of colour and print that was on its way.
Colour was diffused throughout the collection in print, 80’s style motifs, block colour and embellishment. Daring combinations of geometric and semi organic shapes were abstractly laid out in bold crayon and highlighter colours on leopard print fur, denim. One of my favourite prints is the holographic fighter plane motif muddled with geometric and pac-man print silhouettes.
My Hero Piece.
It’s ideal for jotting down important details…doodling…communicating an instruction or conveying a feeling. It may be small but the handy Post-It note has played its part in Fyodor Golan’s creative journey, so much so that the designers clearly expressed their affiliation to this infamous commodity, starting with a little, pink crop top in ‘original’ Post-It pink with a neck high ruffle.
‘Moveable printed and leather post it note shapes’ came in icon Post-It highlight colours attached to crystal clear PVC. It made me wonder if the transparent characteristic of the PVC material suggests the notion of bearing all… having the courage to be honest in your expression of self and possibly still maintaining a protective layer against negativity?
The next best thing to wearing your heart on your sleeve?….. Maybe so.
In a time where we are surrounded by memes and quotes about self-expression and love, is it time for us to take a step back from uploading quotes and memes to digitally communicating our emotions and beliefs? Is it time we went back to basics with the good old pen and paper?
On a less conceptual note, the wide leg jogging bottoms (below) with the pop button finished side splits are too cool.
Taste the rainbow.
Inspired by the larger than life masterpieces of German artist Katharina Grosse, Fyodor Golan created looks that collectively showed off torrents of spray printed colour like a mass of rainbows oozing in to one another. In a spectrum of pastel hues the first burst of colour was a hairy textured over coat, again with a giant lapel collar like the first dove grey look and teamed with matching opaque tights. Like what you would imagine Joseph’s multicoloured coat to look like, maybe.
Meanwhile muted pieces in dark denim, nude and black kept the collection grounded.